photograph of the silkscreen on the rear of the SKR E3 Turbo from BIGTREETECH an OPEN SOURCE HARDWARE

SKR E3 Turbo Setup Guide

The SKR E3 Turbo Setup, a guide to visually aid in the installation of this mainboard from BIGTREE-TECH into 3D printers such as the Creality Ender 3 lineup.

This product has been sent with the kind generosity of BIGTREE-TECH for the purpose of testing.

Importantly I would like to thank BIGTREE-TECH and you the readers of Make ‘N’ Print by creating this setup guide for the SKR E3 Turbo 3D Printer Mainboard.

As always thanks for reading and keep well.

Please note that this article and the links above may contain affiliate links which help to fund the Make ‘N’ Print website.

SKR E3 TURBO Setup Guide Category Links.
Power Connections
Onboard TMC2209
Sensorless Homing
Stepper Driver Placement
Stepper Motor Wiring
Limit Switches for Endstops
LCD Installation
TFT Touch Screen Installation
BLTouch Installation
NeoPixel LED’s

Hardware Installation

While not much has changed in the physical installation of the SKR E3 TURBO when compared to the SKR MINI E3 V2. However there are some differences in cable orientation. Nonetheless this setup guide to installing the SKR E3 Turbo is also designed to help those, whom which this may be their first venture into upgrading a 3D printer. As a result this installation guide of the SKR E3 Turbo, will go through the various steps in installing the mainboard from BIGTREE-TECH.

Unlike the SKR V1.4 or SKR Pro, there are no power jumpers to reposition, so at least that is one less thing to worry about. Additionally the SKR MINI Turbo is designed to be as much as a direct replacement for the Creality Ender 3 mainboards as possible.

Sometimes things don’t always go to plan when installing new mainboards. But this is where the Make ‘N’ Print guide to installing the SKR E3 Turbo comes in. Moreover this guide should help you through the upgrade process with the installation broken down, explained and represented visually.

The odd bit of wiring

photograph showing a tool inserted in a JST-XH 2.54mm 3 pin connector. The tool pushes the catch down just enough to pull the cable out with ease.

It is always our intention to keep the guides as simple and easy to follow as possible. However there may be an odd wire or connector that needs to be rewired. But worry not, more often than not, it is a simple case of pushing the metal retaining pins down with a tool or pin. Followed by pulling out the cable. Furthermore with the cable removed, lift the pushed down pin backup with a fingernail. Simply reposition the cables as needed and push back in.

Wether you need to re-wire or not is completely dependent on how each printer and its components are setup.

Power Connections

Schematic image showing the power connections on the SKR E3 Turbo

A point of note, for those upgrading from an SKR MINI E3 board, the orientation of the heated bed and heating element is different. Importantly check, check and double check the polarity of the power cables is correct.

Unquestionably installing the power cables is one of the simplest part of installing the SKR E3 Turbo. However it is always best to delve into the subject, especially for those whom are a little anxious. But if you are concerned, don’t worry. Moreover with the electrical side of things, it is just a case of following along and inserting the wiring into the SKR E3 Turbo.

It should be noted that before removing or installing a new 3D printer board, always ensure the mains power to the PSU is switched off.


photograph showing the orientation of the polarity for the DC IN on the SKR E3 Turbo

Just like the previous SKR E3 mainboards, the location of the DCIN connector remains on the left hand side. While the orientation of the wiring remains the same regardless if the Power Supply Unit (PSU) is 12v or 24v. Importantly the positive (+) red wire from the PSU is inserted into the positive (+ / DCIN) terminal on the left hand. Additionally the negative (-) black cable in inserted into the negative (- / GND) terminal on the right.

Heated Bed

photograph showing the DC polarity for the heated bed on the SKR E3 Turbo

Although the SKR E3 Turbo features the same builtin WSK220N04 MOSFET as the SKR MINI E3 V2. Critically the polarity orientation of the terminals is different. Essentially the heated beds positive (+) wire now is inserted into the left hand side of the terminal. Whereas the negative (-) is inserted into the right.

There are those that will argue polarity doesn’t matter on heated beds. Yet on many beds it is critical. Especially those heated beds with LEDS attached. Consequentially most heated beds have a positive and a negative marked out on them.

Heating Element

photograph of the wiring for the dual extruder  heating element on the SKR E3 Turbo

More often than not, the heating element cables for the 3D printer have no markings on them to indicate either a positive or negative wire. Thus either of the wires can be placed into the positive or negative terminal. But if the cables have markings on them, then the correct polarity must be checked with the suppliers documentation.

A welcome feature to the SKR E3 Turbo is the ability to utilise a second extruder motor and heating element. Therefor if you are only using a single extruder, which is the likely option for many. Then the heating element wiring is inserted into HE0. Additionally if you have a second extruder setup, then the wires for the second heating element are inserted into HE1.

photograph showing one of the removable heating element blocks removed on the SKR E3 Turbo

Additionally the SKR E3 Turbo has removable socket mounts for the heating elements of both extruders. Moreover this allows for the wiring to be fixed to the terminal block is removed and simply placed back into place when done.


photograph of the heated bed thermistor connection on the SKR E3 Turbo mainboard for 3D printers

Just like the 3D printers heating element, the cable orientation for the thermistors is often not important. As a result the correct thermistor simply needs plugging into the correct connector. Moreover the heated bed thermistor is inserted into the TB connection and the heating element is inserted into TH0. A point of note, if you are using a second extruder then the second thermistor wires are connected to TH1 connection.

A point of note, if you replace your thermistor and it is not a two pin JST-XH 2.54mm pitch connector like in the picture above. Although you can still use these, it is highly recommended to either rewire the connector or use a heated glue gun to hold the connector in place.

Affilate links below:BIGTREE-TECH SKR E3 Turbo
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Onboard TMC2209

photograph of an onboard TMC2209 stepper driver on the SKR E3 Turbo

While certain boards such as the SKR E3 DIP feature removable stepper drivers that require the jumpers moved to enable certain modes. Unlike the SKR MINI Turbo which features builtin TMC2209 stepper drivers. Therefor the drivers are pre-configured to UART mode and there is no need to set any jumpers.

Sensorless Homing

photograph of sensorless homing enabled on the SKR E3 Turbo by bridging the DIAG pins

Wether you like or hate sensorless homing, it is an option you can enable via the SKR E3 Turbo mainboard and within the firmware. But what is sensorless homing?

In general sensorless homing is the removal of physical switches on the 3D printer. However when the axis has reached the end the stepper driver keeps moving. But as the motor can not push the carriage on the axis any further, it begins to loose steps. Consequentially the stepper driver than triggers a signal to the board which then acts as a trigger like a mechanical switch. Although this sounds dramatic, this is achieved over milliseconds. Nonetheless there are those who don’t like to use sensorless homing. But there is nothing wrong in experimenting and trying it out for yourself.

In general only the X and Y axis are used with sensorless homing. With this in mind to enable the sensorless homing mode, simply place a jumper over the DIAG pin. For example the X axis would need a pin over the X-DIAG pins.


photograph of the heatsinks attached to the onboard TMC2209 stepper drivers on the SKR E3 Turbo

Without a doubt keeping the stepper drivers cool is a critical ingredient in printing successfully. But while stepper drivers become more efficient, they still need help in keeping cool. Moreover heatsinks placed onto the stepper driver help draw the heat away faster. Additionally active fan cooling such as the fan in a Creality Ender 3 board enclosure helps to blow the hot radiated air away.

Stepper Motor Wiring

schematic showing the stepper motor wiring on the SKR E3 Turbo and Creality Ender 3 boards
Stepper driver wiring orientation on SKR E3 Turbo.

Without out a doubt having the Creality Ender 3 Turbo designed to be a drop-in replacement for Creality boards makes life easy. Moreover cables for the most part are simply plugged into the corresponding connector. For example the original stepper motor cable on the Creality Ender 3 for the X axis, plugs into the XM connector on the SKR E3 Turbo.

But sadly for those not using a Creality setup the task of writing a guide for the wiring is near impossible. Nonetheless most Nema 17 stepper motors operate with two coils that alternate the direction of movement and are wired in pairs. To clarify in the stepper driver wiring diagram above, A often represents the positive and B the negative. For example 1A and 1B moves the stepper motor in one direction. Whereas 2A and 2B move the stepper motor in the opposing direction.

Limit Switches for Endstops

photograph showing the wire orientation of the limit switches used for endstops on the SKR E3 Turbo 3D printer mainboard

Just like the stepper motor connections, the limit switch or end stops are directly inserted into the namesake connectors. Such as the X-Limit switch or End-Stop as it is also known plugs into the X-STOP connector on the SKR E3 Turbo.


In case not all users are using a Creality setup for the board. the example above shows the cable orientation, with the negative nearest to the FAN2 connector.

LCD Installation

photograph of the EXP1 EXP2 and EXP3 connectors on a Creality CR10 display as supplied with CR10, Ender 3, and Ender 5 3D printers
Creality Ender Display / CR10 Display

In most cases wiring up the LCD to the SKR E3 Turbo is the easiest stage of the installation and intern the Make ‘N’ Print setup guide. Especially as for many the LCD is likely to the Creality Ender 3 display known as the CR10 display. Furthermore the wiring is a case of simply connecting the EXP3 port on the LCD to the EXP1 port on the SKR E3 Turbo.

photograpgh of a 10 pin IDC ribbon cable connecting the LCD via the EXP1 connection on the SKR E3 Turbo

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TFT Touch Screen Installation

photograph of the TFT wiring orientation on the SKR E3 Turbo mainboard

Without a doubt attaching a TFT screen is another easy task to follow. Moreover if the TFT screen is from BIGTREE-TECH plug the white connector into the TFT screen as it will only fit one way. Followed by inserting the other end of the cable into the SKR E3 Turbo with the single loose connector on the far left, nearest to the power connector. Whereas the 5V end of the 4 pin connect sites to the far right near the LCD cable.

To demonstrate and visualise this better. I have used a custom cable within the example imagery. Whereas Yellow is the reset cable (The lose connector) the Red is the 5V cable.


A point of note, not all TFT models have the pin layout in the same order, so care needs to be taken. Moreover this is why the TFT cable that BTT or BIQU supply has the reset cable loose. Allowing the other pins orientation can be reversed by turning the cable 180 degrees.

Affilate links below:BIGTREE-TECH SKR E3 Turbo
affiliate link: available at aliexpress
Available from AliExpress $50.86
affiliate link: available at amazon
Available from Amazon UK £55.99
affiliate link: available at amazon
Available from Amazon USA $52.99

TFT 35 E3

photograph showing the wiring and pin connections on TFT35 E3. The connector to use is the one below other identical connector. Showing left to right the sequence is as follows. Reset, RX, TX, GND, +5V.

Clearly a popular choice for many is the TFT 35 E3 from BIGTREE-TECH. Consequentially the example showing above and below shows the pin layout for the TFT 35 E3, with the Reset is on the left nearest to the SD card slot.



Clearly the fans are a little different on the SKR E3 Turbo even when compared to the SKR MINI E3 V2. Due to the addition of a second optional extruder. Moreover FAN0 controls the first part cooling fan. Whereas FAN1 controls the part cooling fan for the optional second extruder. Furthermore FAN2 is a non-controllable always on fan for the board controller.

Board Controller Cooling Fan

photograph of the mainboards cooling fan connection on the SKR E3 Turbo

Moreover the board cooling fan on the Ender 3 enclosure plugs into FAN2, which is between the HE1 power connector and the X-Stop switch. But there is no housing to mount the plug. Although both Dupont and JST-XH connectors fit in the space, I would recommend using a hot glue gun to hold them securely in place.

photograph showing the polarity of the connected mainboard cooling fan on the SKR E3 Turbo

Importantly the positive (+) red cable is at the top nearest to the other fan connectors. Whereas the negative (-) black cable is at the bottom nearest the edge of the SKR E3 Turbo board.

V+ (Red)
V- / GND (Black)

Part Cooling Fan

photograph of the part cooling fan connection on the SKR E3 Turbo for extruder 0

Importantly the part cooling fan is used to cool the filament while printing and the first extruder plugs into the FAN0 connector. The second extruders part cooling fan plugs into FAN1 which is nearest to the PS-ON connector.

Additionally the positive (+) red cable is to the left nearest the power connections and the negative (-) black cable is to the right.


A point of note the voltage of fans must be the same as the power supply connected to the board via the DCIN connector.

For instance if you are using a 12 Volt power supply you will need 12V fans. Similarly if you are using a 24 Volt power supply you will need 24V fans. However you can use a buck convertor to reduce the voltage of fans from 24V down to 12V.

photograph of a buck convertor. This particular buck convertor has a
display reading 12.1 volts.

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Heatsink Fan

schematic showing the power output connection on the SKR E3 Turbo

Similarly to the stepper drivers, keeping the heatsink cool is an essential element of 3D printing. Importantly the fan keeps the filament rigid enough so that it can effectively be pushed into the nozzle, without blocking up the heat break or any PTFE tubing.

Furthermore the wiring is simple with a choice of two options. Firstly the amperage drawn by the heatsink fan is low and could be wired together with the mainboard enclosure fan.

photograph showing the DC out terminal on the SKR E3 Turbo with the coloured wiring showing the correctly polarity orientation

However I prefer a far quicker and easier method of stripping the wires back and inserting them into the DC OUT connector on the SKR E3 Turbo board as shown above. Importantly the positive wire seats to the left while the negative to the right. However the voltage of the fan must match that of the power supply that powers the SKR E3 Turbo mainboard.

BLTouch Installation

A moody photograph of original Antclabs BLTouch V3.0 illuminated red

Without a doubt wiring a BLTouch style probe to the SKR E3 Turbo is a simple affair. However not all follow the original Antclabs BLTouch wiring colour code. Furthermore some clones even have the wiring back to front. But for ease ability I have listed the two main variants below.

Antclabs BLTouch wiring

photograph of the Z-Probe connection the SKR E3 Turbo with Antclab BLTouch wiring orientation


Alternative BlTouch Colour Code Wiring

photograph of the z-probe connection on the SKR E3 Turbo with an alternative colour wiring scheme for BLTouch style or other probes


Furthermore I have listed the order above from left to right for the Z-Probe connector. Importantly left (Brown or Blue) is nearest to the large LPC1769 processor chip and the right (White) is nearest to the LCD EXP1 connector on the SKR E3 Turbo.

BlTouch Alternative Wiring

photograph of the Z-Stop being used as an alternative wiring method for the BLTouch or other probes on the SKR E3 Turbo

Every once in a while things don’t go to plan and the BLTouch doesn’t respond well when the black and white wires are placed into the probe connection. While this could be a hardware issue, it could be simply a bug that has slipped into the firmware. Nonetheless if this sounds familiar then the black and white wires need to be inserted into the Z-Stop connector on the SKR E3 Turbo. Additionally this requires additional firmware changes that will be covered in the Configuration.h Marlin setup of the SKR E3 Turbo guide.

Importantly the wiring orientation is with the ground (black) wire to the left, which is nearest to the power connections. Whereas the signal (white) cable is positioned to the right next to the TB thermistor connection..


NeoPixel DCDC

While the installation of Neopixels or WS2812 on the SKR E3 Turbo is simple enough. However it does require a little more information and as such has it own guide. If you would like to learn more on using NeoPixel LED’s on the SKR E3 Turbo. Then have a read of the Make ‘N’ Print’s guide to installing NeoPixel LED’s on the SKR E3 Turbo.

Firmware Installation

To accompany the SKR E3 Turbo Setup Guide we are in the process of creating a guide for setting up Marlin firmware for the SKR E3 Turbo users. Once completed the link will appear above.

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Thank You

Affilate links below:BIGTREE-TECH SKR E3 Turbo
affiliate link: available at aliexpress
Available from AliExpress $50.86
affiliate link: available at amazon
Available from Amazon UK £55.99
affiliate link: available at amazon
Available from Amazon USA $52.99

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