Upclose photograph of the silkscreen on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 to showcase for the setup guide.

SKR E3 DIP V1.1 Setup Guide

SKR E3 DIP V1.1 Setup Guide an aid to installing one of the Ender 3 designated SKR boards, from BIGTREE-TECH. Steps include BLTouch, and UART.

This product was purchased by Make ‘N’ Print for the purpose of reviewing and articles.

If you have an item or a subject that you would like to see Make ‘N’ Print write about then drop us a line. Either by the contact page or via social media. As always thanks for reading and keep well.

Please note that this article may contain affiliate links which help to fund the Make ‘N’ Print website.

SKR E3 DIP V1.1 Setup Guide Category Links.
Power Connections
Jumper Configuration
Stepper Driver Placement
UART Ready TMC Stepper Drivers
Stepper Motor Wiring
LCD Installation
TFT Touch Screen Installation
BLTouch Installation

Hardware Installation

Unlike other SKR boards such as the SKR V1.4 or Pro, there is no power jumper to be set.

Without a doubt the physical installation of 3D printer mainboards tends to be the easiest part. Especially when it comes to the E3 designated boards from BIGTREE-TECH. Nonetheless somewhere down the line a curve ball gets thrown and that’s exactly what this tutorial is designed to help with. Furthermore for those new to modifying their 3D printer, the task of replacing the 3D printers mainboard can be a little daunting. While in the case of the SKR E3 DIP V1.1, it is likely to be used within a Creality Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro or Ender 5 3D printer. However the board is to be used, the Make ‘N’ Print SKR E3 DIP V1.1 setup guide should see you right.

The odd bit of re-wiring

While I will try and keep the guide as simple and easy as possible. However the odd piece of rewiring is not uncommon. Wether it be for the end-stops, stepper motors and possibly the automatic bed levelling probe.

photograph showing a tool inserted in a JST-XH 2.54mm 3 pin connector. The tool pushes the catch down just enough to pull the cable out with ease.

But worry not, normally it is a simple case of pushing the metal retaining pins down with a tool or pin, and then pull out the cable. Furthermore lift the pushed down pin backup with a fingernail, then reposition the cables as needed and push back in. Nonetheless wether you need to re-wire or not is completely dependent on how each printer and its components are setup.

Power Connections

Schematic image showing the power connections on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

While the power connections are possibly the most easiest part of the installation on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1. Nonetheless it feels prudent to cover this subject, just encase there are some who feel less than comfortable when dealing with the electrical side of things. Furthermore for the most part, it is merely a case of placing the existing wiring from the previous board into the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 mainboard.


photograph showing polarity of DC / Power In on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Importantly the DCIN or power into the board is the power connection on the left hand side, NOT the power connection at the front of the board. Nonetheless wether you are powering the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 board with either 12V or 24V the wiring remains the same. You will need to to add the red and black wiring that runs from the power supply into the DCIN connection. However ensure that the black is placed into negative (-) and the red into the positive (+). In this case, as you look at the power connection head on, the black negative wire is to the right. While the red positive wire is to the left.

Heated Bed

photograph showing polarity of heated bed on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

For those wishing to use the builtin MOSFET on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 to power the heated bed, then plug the negative cable into the left terminal and the positive cable into the right terminal.

While many will argue polarity doesn’t matter on heated beds, on some beds it is critical. Nonetheless it is good practice to always follow the correct polarity where indicated. Furthermore it is important on some beds with LEDS attached. As such, most heated beds have a positive and negative marked, so why run the risk.

Heating Element

photograph showing the hot end heating element wiring on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Importantly when it comes to the heating elements on your 3D printer, for most printers polarity doesn’t matter. But what do I mean by polarity ? In this case, positive wiring should go into the positive terminal, and negative wiring into negative terminals.

But as previously mentioned if both your wires for your heating element are identical, and have no differing markings. Then you can place any of the wires into either the positive or negative terminal.


photograph of thermistor connection on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

When it comes to thermistors, polarity doesn’t matter, as such the wiring can be inserted either way around. Furthermore the TB connection is the Thermistor for the heated Bed. While TH0 is Thermistor for the Heating Element.

A point of note, not all thermistors come supplied with a two pin JST-XH 2.54mm pitch connector. However if your thermistors have the longer black connectors known as Dupont, then you can still use these with the help of a heated glue gun. Importantly this helps keep them in place.

Jumper Configuration

photograph of a collection of red and black jumper connectors

On the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 only the jumpers for the stepper driver configuration is required.

UART TMC-2208 & TMC-2209’s

Like the SKR V1.3, V1.4 or SKR Pro, setting up the stepper driver jumper connections for UART on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 is nice and easy. However let’s break it down just to ensure it is set correctly.

photograph showing the stepper driver configuration jumper set to UART mode on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

  • Remove all the jumpers from where the stepper drivers will sit.
  • Now place a single jumper one row up and the left.

UART Ready TMC Stepper Drivers

up close photograph of the underside of a bigtreetech TMC2209 V1.2 with a resistor pre-soldered for the UART ready version.

The above picture is of the PDN connections of a TMC2209 V1.2 stepper driver from BIGTREE-Tech. Furthermore we can see a pre-soldered 0Ω resistor is used to bridge the PDN / UART connections, which in turn enables UART.

Moreover if the stepper drivers being used are already soldered or bridged for UART, then skip the Non-UART Ready section. With the next step in the setup guide being Stepper Driver Placement on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1. However it might serve well to have a read anyway so you can double check that you have been sent the correct items. Furthermore it adds a little more understanding to the process, handy for future use.

Non-UART Ready TMC Stepper Drivers

close-up photograph of TMC2208 highlighting J2 pad needing to be soldered to enable UART on non-UART ready TMC2208 stepper driver

If the TMC 2208 or TMC 2209’s are not UART ready, then a little soldering is required. As pictured above the J2 connection and the connection immediately above it, needs to be bridged on a TMC2208. Moreover bridging in this instance is soldering between the two connections bridging them together. Furthermore using a slightly finer solder around 0.6mm or slightly under will help make a cleaner contact.

*Important – Always solder in a well ventilated room, with the fumes being pulled away from you. If need be use a desktop fan blowing towards a window away from yourself.

Affiliate Links Below:

Stepper Driver Placement

TMC 2208, TMC 2209

photograph showing the stepper driver orientation on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Insert your stepper drivers into their correct positions and orientation, ensuring that they are gently pushed all the way down. Moreover on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1, that is with the potentiometer, facing towards the power connectors on the board. Additionally some drivers are marked with EN which should be matched up with the EN markings on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1.

photograph of bigtreetech TMC 2209 stepper driver with the config pin circled. The config pin is the centre most pin on the edge of the driver.
TMC2209 with DIAG pin circled.

However if you are wishing to use TMC 2209’s with mechanical switches and not use the sensor-less homing feature, then the DIAG pin on the TMC2209 needs removing. Moreover this can either be cut off with some wire cutters, or as I prefer unsolder the pin. Furthermore a PCB vice or some helping hands are particular useful for this task. Allowing one hand to apply heat with a solder iron, while holding pliers ready to remove the pin.

a photograph showing a soldering iron touching the config pin on a bigtreetech TMC2209 V1.2 as if desoldering the config pin so that the mechanical end stops work with the SKR V1.4 3d printer board

Affiliate Links Below:

up-close photograph of a row TMC 2209 V1.2 stepper drivers with blue heatsinks on fitted to the bigtreetech SKR V1.4 3d printer board

Continuing on with the stepper driver placement and I tend to prefer to leave the heatsinks off until after I have placed them on the board. Without a doubt this makes life a little easier.

Why add heatsinks ?

Without a doubt stepper drivers are constantly evolving and improving efficiency, but they can still run particularly hot. While placing heatsinks on each stepper driver helps to quickly draw some of the heat away. However most drivers still require additional cooling, such as a directed fan in order to keep them cool enough to prevent problems and missed steps.

Stepper Motor Wiring

schematic showing the stepper motor wiring on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Needless to say, as the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 is designed as a drop-in replacement for the original Creality boards. The stepper motor cables simply plugin in to the corresponding axis. For example the creality X cable plugs into the XM connection on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1.

But for those not using a Creality setup the writing a guide to the correct stepper motor wiring becomes difficult. Moreover with so many stepper motors on the market and each seemingly with their own colour coding pattern.

However most Nema 17 stepper motors has two coils that control the direction of movement. Furthermore the A in diagrams normally represents the positive and the B the negative wires. While each coil has its own pair of wires, and as long as each pair of A and B wires are connected so that they correspond to the A and B positions on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1. Then the worse that will happen is that the axis will move off in the wrong direction.

Nonetheless this can easily be overcome, either by changing the wire positions in the connector or by changing the settings within the 3D printers firmware. For instance the INVERT_X_DIR option within Marlin.

LCD Installation

photograph of the EXP1 EXP2 and EXP3 connectors on a Creality CR10 display as supplied with CR10, Ender 3, and Ender 5 3D printers
Creality Ender Display / CR10 Display

Next step on the setup guide to installing the SKR E3 DIP V1.1, is connecting the LCD screen. Furthermore for many using the SKR E3 DIP V1.1, this is likely to be the Creality Ender display, which is often referred to as the CR10 display.

Additionally the LCD connection is a nice and simple task of connecting the EXP3 port on the screen to the LCD port on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 board.

Affiliate Links Below:

TFT Touch Screen Installation

photograph of wiring order for a TFT screen on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

A very simple installation, if the 5 pin connector is used for the TFT it can only fit one way. Additionally on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 the reset cable, which is the one loose connector, sits at the top, nearest to the stepper drivers. While the 5V end of the 4 pin plug sits nearest to the thermistors. Furthermore to help visualise this better, I have used a multi-colour cable within the example imagery, Yellow is the reset cable and Red the 5V cable.

Importantly the example below shows the TFT pin placements on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1, working top to bottom. Moreover the reset is at the top being nearest to the stepper drivers.


A point of note, not all TFT models have the pin layout in the same order, so care needs to be taken. Moreover this is why the TFT cable that BTT or BIQU supply has the reset cable loose. Allowing the other pins orientation can be reversed by turning the cable 180 degrees.

TFT 35 E3

photograph showing the wiring and pin connections on TFT35 E3. The connector to use is the one below other identical connector. Showing left to right the sequence is as follows. Reset, RX, TX, GND, +5V.

The example below shows the pin configuration on the TFT35 E3, Working left from right as you face the back of the TFT screen. Left being nearest to the SD card Slot and the right nearest to the edge of the screen.



Fans on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 are a little different and it is important to ensure you connect the right fans to the correct port.

Board Enclosure Cooling Fan

photograph showing the board cooling fan placement on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Moreover the board cooling fan on the Ender 3 enclosure plugs into FAN1, which is nearest to the stepper drivers.

Part Cooling Fan

photograph showing the part cooling fan placement on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

While the part cooling fan used to cool the filament while printing plugs into FAN0. Which is nearest to the front edge of the board. Furthermore both fan ports have the positive connection on the left and the negative on the right, as shown below.


Furthermore it is important to remember to match the fans voltage to that of the SKR E3 DIP V1.1. For instance if you are using a 12 Volt power supply you will need 12V fans. Similarly if you are using a 24 Volt power supply you will need 24V fans. However you can use a buck convertor to reduce the voltage of fans from 24V down to 12V.

photograph of a buck convertor. This particular buck convertor as display reading 12.1 volts.

Affiliate Link – Buck Convertor Available on AliExpress

Heatsink Fan

schematic showing the power output connection on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

For those using the Creality Ender 24V heatsink cooling fan, there a few options. Firstly the amperage is low enough that it could be wired together with the boards cooling fan via the FAN1 port. Alternatively the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 has an additional power out connector on the board. Which will directly output the same voltage as supplied to the board. Moreover using this additional power out is my favourite method of wiring the heatsink fan on this board, It’s quick, hassle free and no need to switch connectors.

photograph of the polarity of the extra power output on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

BLTouch Installation

A moody photograph of original Antclabs BLTouch V3.0 illuminated red

Connecting a BLTouch style probe is an easy affair on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 3D printer board. However there are some differences between versions and the colour coded cables that connect them. Nonetheless for ease ability I have listed the two main variants based upon original Antclabs BlTouch versions. But some clones may be different, yet the below examples will serve well as a base point.

photograph showing the BLTouch or bed levelling sensor on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Furthermore I have listed the order below from left to right for the Servo connector. Right being nearest to the TFT connector on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 board.

BLTouch V2


BLTouch V3


Probe Connection

photograph showing the BLTouch or bed levelling sensor using the Z-Stop instead of probe on the SKR E3 DIP V1.1

Despite a designated probe connection I just could not get it to work, either it would not power on, or it would just beep continuously with a blank screen. Consequentially the Z-Stop connector is used instead to connect the back and white cable from the BLTouch. Additionally the black cable is sat next to the Y-Stop and the white wire next to the THB thermistor connection.


Firmware Installation

To accompany the SKR E3 DIP V1.1 Setup Guide we have created a SKR E3 DIP Marlin 2 Firmware Setup guide to further aid SKR E3 DIP users.

If you found this guide useful, please consider a donation to help keep the Make ‘N’ Print website running. For further information please have a look at our support us page

Thank You

© 2019-2021 Copyright - All Rights Reserved.